MCMASTER-CARR過濾器組件1953K999B在線庫存
我們的過濾組件部門為汽車、聲學、航空、電器和保健等行業(yè)提供創(chuàng)新設計的各種網(wǎng)布以地滿足客戶的要求。賽發(fā)根據(jù)應用和客戶的要求特別定的過濾解決方案。
我們的高精密度網(wǎng)布使用單絲線制成，經(jīng)過功能性的表面處理，比如特別為其最終用途設計的涂層。不同過濾介質的巧妙組合實現(xiàn)了多種多樣的解決方案。
所有賽發(fā)產(chǎn)品都通過ISO9001和EN46001認證。根據(jù)客戶要求或是在特殊應用中，與食品接觸的賽發(fā)網(wǎng)布也符合食品與藥品管理局（FDA）和/或RoHS和USP等歐盟指令的規(guī)定。
在汽車類的產(chǎn)品中，過濾器能夠保護相關的機械和電子組件。賽發(fā)使用單絲網(wǎng)布制作高精密度篩網(wǎng)，用于安全過濾器中以保護閥門、泵和傳感器。如果需要高耐沾污性，則需要深度過濾介質，比如燃料/車用尿素過濾器。根據(jù)最新的汽車行業(yè)標準（IATF 16949），在公司的汽車潔凈室緊密監(jiān)控下生產(chǎn)。

聲學

在聲學產(chǎn)品中，我們良的網(wǎng)布提供穩(wěn)定可靠的聲學性能，同時也保護敏感組件不沾染污物、顆粒和液體。

憑借強大的聲阻抗，我們的網(wǎng)布在各種揚聲器和麥克風中實現(xiàn)了最佳的聲學和音質效果。

航空

在航空行業(yè)，賽發(fā)的網(wǎng)布解決方案可以將無用的水分從煤油中分離。它們也用于液壓和氣動系統(tǒng)，和降低引擎噪音。

電器

過濾器組件過濾洗滌水并包括多個排水過濾器。

The filter module filters the washing water, and includes a plurality of drainage filters.

i

該過濾器組件是由含有納米銀的納米銀過濾器的多個過濾器結合構成。

And the filter groupware are constructed by a plurality of filters besides the nanometer argent filter containing the nanometer argent.

i

然后，多個這種濾筒可彼此嵌套并且被合適的排氣流引導擋板分開，以形成顆粒過濾器組件。

A plurality of such cartridges can then be nested within each other and separated by appropriate exhaust gas flow directing baffles to form a particulate filter assembly. 

一些較粗糙的網(wǎng)布被用作電器中水和咖啡的過濾器。空調、洗衣機和空氣過濾器、真空清潔器和吹風機通常也利用賽發(fā)網(wǎng)布出色的質量和長使用壽命。

醫(yī)療保健

醫(yī)療部門為診斷試紙、輸液器和血液過濾器、繃帶和植入物以及多種其他應用提供解決方案。這些應用要求最高的質量標準（ISO 13485，ISO10993, USP VI）并在賽發(fā)的7級潔凈室加工制成。

膜

在的過濾技術中，越來越多地結合使用膜和我們的網(wǎng)布。
多樣選擇

憑借全球各地的子公司，我們的專家很樂于幫助您選擇您應用的過濾器網(wǎng)布或孔徑。根據(jù)確定的顆粒尺寸，我們能提供用于液體和氣體的不同顆粒過濾效率。此外 ，公司給客戶提供關于流率和壓差的*化建議，并評估過濾器與您具體的過濾裝置之間的兼容性。我們網(wǎng)布的特性也可通過添加功能性表面處理（等離子處理）來進行補充。

  MCMASTER-CARR過濾器組件1953K999B在線庫存

過濾組件部門的所有細分市場使用各種不同的網(wǎng)布。這些網(wǎng)布包括SEFAR MEDITEX和密網(wǎng)SEFAR MEDIFAB，以及從SEFAR NITEX(PA)、SEFAR PEEKTEX(PEEK)，SEFAR S-TEX和SEFAR PETEX（PET）密的SEFAR ACOUNSTIC和SEFAR METALEN網(wǎng)布。這些網(wǎng)布根據(jù)訂單制作，并以卷狀和帶狀、模塑件、過濾袋、線帶和分液產(chǎn)品等形式供應。One day my eyeglasses (Warby Parker brand) mysteriously developed a grazing on both lenses. My theory is that it resulted from wearing them under ski goggles on a very cold day on the slopes in Utah and then quickly removing the goggles, causing a rapid temperature change in the plastic lens. I believe it’s possible that the relative difference in thermal expansion between a coating on the lens and the lens itself causes the coating to develop micro cracks across the surface. Whatever the reason, I ended up with glasses that I could barely see through. I have quite poor eyesight, so really need my glasses for pretty much everything. What to do?
My first attempt at correction was to go into the Warby Parker store and ask if they could polish my lenses. (I assumed this was a standard procedure. It’s not.) The store said they would replace the lenses under warranty if less than a year old. (Mine were three years old.) They said they’d replace the lenses at modest cost (maybe $50?) but that this would take a couple of weeks. I was traveling, couldn’t do without the glasses and didn’t have a spare pair. I was then planning to order a new pair, but needed a new eye exam, etc. etc.

So, I decided I needed to take matters into my own hands. Youtube andno real help. (Thus, this post; hoping it’s helpful to others.) The first thing I tried was polishing the lenses with a slurry of water and toothpaste, just using my index finger. This sort-of worked…at least giving me an area in the center of the lens I could sort of see out of. I discovered, however, that there are at least two different coatings on the lens and it’s not easy to remove both with an index finger and toothpaste.

Here’s what finally worked. I bought from Amazon a cordless dremel tool, some felt polishing heads, and cerium dioxide polishing compound. You can see the items in the photo. I then used a slurry of water and the polishing compound with the Dremel tool to polish the lenses. It takes 10 minutes or so and you must be very careful to keep everything wet so the lens doesn’t overheat and melt. But, the result is really good. I can see again. You can see in the second photo the edge of the lens and the transition from the region where the coating has been removed and the still-coated area. (I am going to get new glasses, so didn’t get too persnickety about removing every bit of coating.)
I finally had a few minutes to sort my actual construction expenses and put them in some reasonable categories. This is a brief summary of the construction costs.

First, the basic parameters of the house:

    4348 sq-ft of space, including the garage
    3-level “walk-out” design
    2092 sq-ft footprint
    4 bedrooms
    Cathedral ceilings in upper levels
    5 bathrooms
    Enclosed deck on upper level
    Front and rear paver terraces

The total construction costs were $619,000. This is every dime I spent from the time we applied for a permit to the time we received the certificate of occupancy. It does not include the design fees (architect + structural engineer), which were about $60,000. It also does not include the cost of about 15 trips from Philadelphia to Utah, which cost about $10,000.

The cost comes out to $142/sq-ft of enclosed space. The square footage includes the garage but does not include the enclosed deck off the master bedroom, nor the covered terrace. I believe the calculation should include the garage, because the garage basically has the identical finishes as the rest of the house (same concrete, framing, drywall, paint, windows, casing, electrical, etc.).

In many ways calculating by the square foot is misleading. So, I’m providing a lot of detail on the costs by category in the following PDF file. This breaks down the costs by item with the usual “units” that are used to calculate the costs. For instance, the counter tops cost $7489 and comprised 135 sq-ft for a cost of $55/sq-ft.

ParkCityHouse-Costs-2010 (PDF File)

If I had been on site full time and done all the GC work myself, I might have saved another $40k, which is what I paid my friend to coordinate the job.

I believe that if I had hired a conventional general contractor for this job, it would have cost quite a bit more, but I don’t know how much more for sure. My guess is that the bids would have come in at around $750k and that the change orders would have pushed the total cost to $800k.

My original budget was $550k. I expected to spend at least $50k more, because that’s what happens…and that is basically what happened.

The “just in case” and “nice to have”  items I added (mostly during the design phase) and which pushed up the cost were:

    Snow bars above hot tub .
    Cool-vent ventilated roofing panels 
    Ice shield on the entire roof     Heat recovery ventilator instead of normal bath fans.
    Spray foam insulation.
    Granite or quartz on all counter surfaces and vanities
    Handmade backsplash tile $1000
    CVG fir doors (instead of a less expensive species)
    Programmable “landlord” thermostats in 9 heating zones
    5/8″ drywall instead of 1/2″ drywall     Ipe decking instead of synthetic wood decking 
Thus, I think if pennies were pinched, this house could have been built for about  less.

The only other way to have fundamentally changed the cost structure of this house would have been to engineer out the steel, which probably would have required manufactured roof trusses instead of the conventional rafter and truss system we used, and some changes to a few walls. We could also have supported the front terrace awning/roof with columns instead of the “store front” tie rods. These actions together might have taken out another $15k.

Still, I’m glad I didn’t pinch the pennies and I’m glad I didn’t do the roof or awning differently. Thek is worth it for what are some of the most distinctive features of the house. All things considered, $142/sq-ft is a screaming deal for a highly custom contemporary home like this. 
  MCMASTER-CARR過濾器組件1953K999B在線庫存